The Paris Traveler

Most people don’t think of going to a cemetary to take an afternoon stroll, but Père Lachaise is no ordinary burial ground. As a matter of fact, it is the most visited cemetary in the world. There are over 300,000 people buried on these 118 acres of land that make up the largest cemetary in the city of Paris which is located in the 20th arrondissement.

There is a crematorium and a columbarium which holds the remains of those who have chosen this type of burial here as well. A very close and dear friend of mine was cremated here. I can’t tell you how people are cremated in other countries, but at Pere Lachaise it was very impressive.

Many famous people have their resting place here, one of course being, Jim Morrison of The Doors whose gravesite is one of the most visited at Pere Lachaise. So much controversy had gone on for years from family members of nearby tombs because of vandalism, etc., that the cemetary was forced to hire a full-time security guard at Jim’s site.

You can spend the whole day wandering through the rows of headstones under the tree lined lanes looking at the tombs of Sarah Bernhardt, Georges Bizet, Maria Callas, Chopin, Grappelli, Molière, Modigliani, Yves Montand, Piaf, Proust, Oscar Wilde, and Jean Valjean to name a few. Believe me it’s an interesting and peaceful walk in Paris!

Cimetière du Père-Lachaise
16 Rue du Repos
Paris 20
Summertime Hours:
M-F 8 a.m. - 6 p.m.
Sat 8:30 a.m. - 6 p.m.
Sun 9 a.m. - 6 p.m.
M° Stations: Philippe Auguste (main entrance), Père Lachaise, or Gambetta

Photo Credits: Flickr

Share This

The French have a great expression for window shopping, it’s called “le leche vitrine” which literally means, “to lick the window”. Well that’s exactly what I did when I use to go to work everyday for a group of international lawyers who have their offices on this avenue right off the Champs-Elysées. My philosophy was and still is, if your going to lick windows, then why not pick some of the best and most expensive windows to lick?!

The Avenue Montaigne is just the place. It is filled from one end of the street to the other with some of the most famous and top brand names. Think haute couture like Chanel, Dior, Lacroix, accessories like Louis Vuitton, or world renowned jewelers like Harry Winston and Bulgari and you get the picture.

The street itself exudes sophistication, elegance, and style; and why not, with Rolls Royces, Bentleys or Aston Martins parked here or there in front of the boutiques, or the luxurious Hôtel Plaza Athénée. It’s a smorgasbord for European royalty, Middle-Eastern oil magnets, heads of state, and movie stars, so don’t be surprised if you see someone famous that you recognize.

The avenue has metamorphosized throughout the years, however, and you have a whole new group of celebrated names in the fashion world that have made their mark here as well. Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Escada, Prada, and even Calvin Klein to name a few. So enjoy a stroll down this beautiful tree lined avenue and stop licking! Go on in and get yourself something nice, you deserve it!

Photo Credits: Flickr

Share This

Think nightlife in Paris and many people will think of the Lido, the Crazy Horse Saloon, or the Moulin Rouge, but if you’re looking for somewhere to laugh and have fun, and is a little outside the norm, then Michou’s is the place to go.

Michou who’s been an entertainer for years, started his cabaret in the 60’s and is still the director of his show. Quite the character, Michou is always dressed in blue; his large spectacles are no exception.

The stage is rather small, but the entertainment by a bevy of transvestite performers is anything but. As the lights go down and the show begins, you get not one show biz superstar for the evening, but a whole range of divas hailing from the past up to the present day. If you’re like me, some of the performances by the impersonators will have you doing a double take wondering if they’re not the real deal!

The cabaret is located at the bottom of Montmartre near Pigalle. Dinner begins at 20h30 with a show following. The menu is quite good at 99 € which includes a half bottle of wine. Tax and service are included in the price. (Try their Pear Charlotte!)

You can makes reservations, but don’t forget, the cabaret like many other places in Paris are closed during part of the summer. (The French do not play around when it comes to being on holiday! *)

Cabaret Michou
80 Rue des Martyrs
Paris 18
Tel: 01.46.06.16.04
M° Pigalle
(* Closed from the 15th of July until the 15th of August.

Photo Credits: Flickr

Share This

Alegría is a Spanish word meaning merriment, joy, happiness and that is exactly what you’ll feel at the Cirque du Soleil. Their shows never fail to delight and amaze spectators young and old. If you’ve ever been to one of them you know exactly what I mean.

Alegría is a story of power; of youth taking over the reins of those who have come before them. This is not without a struggle, however, as those who have aged resist the idea that youth has escaped them, and they are no longer what they use to be. The list of characters, from The Old Birds to the youthful gangs of The Bronx and their counterparts, The Angels, all interweave into a struggle of change and transformation. Only The Clowns seem to have escaped the passing of time.

I think the magic of the Cirque du Soleil not only lies in their storytelling, but more importantly in their ability to defy what seems humanly impossible for most of us. From the Flying Man doing his acrobatic performances to the handbalancing act of beauty and strength. (How can anyone stand on one hand?!) It is a continuous feast of beautiful costumes, of fire and knife dancing, and trapeze flying.

It is somewhere to take the children and grandparents alike; to escape to another time, another place. Sorry to bring you back to reality, but it is also one of those times when you should definitely make sure that you are on time! (If you’ve read my post Paris Time - One Hour Later you’ll know what I mean!) The show always begins when scheduled and late comers will have to wait until a break in the performance to be seated!

The show is 2 hours 20 minutes with a 30 minute intermission. Tickets range from 25 € to 85 €. The Big Top is located in Saint-Denis on the outskirts of northern Paris and will be there until July 15, 2007.

Cirque du Soleil - Allegría
RER: Stade de France/Saint-Denis
Under the Big Top near the station and the stadium.
tel. 01.41.57.31.26
Ticket Outlets: Fnac, Virgin, Le Bon Marche, Carrefour, Geant, Auchan, E. Leclerc, Hyper U, and Cora.

Enjoy!

Photo Credits: Flickr

Share This

I found some great bargains at the shops in Bercy Village. This is a walking area full of boutiques, restaurants, pubs and a multi-plex movie theater not far from the Palais Omnisport and across from the Parc de Bercy. At one time this was the largest wine market in the world and the destination for wine coming in from the south of France.

The warehouses that were converted into specialty stores has something for just about everyone. It was fun going from shop to shop, tasting the Mediterranean olive oils and other goodies at Oliviers & Co., trying on different make-up and perfumes at Sephora, and finding great deals at Résonances which emphasizes natural well-being.

I found a terrific cookbook on clearance by Gérard Depardieu for only 5 € entitled, Ma Cuisine! I gave it to Patrick as a gift. He’s my own personal 4 star French chef. Yes, you read right! Patrick owned several French restaurants for more than twenty-five years, but now he just cooks for me! Did I fail to mention that he also happens to be my significant other? I know! Everyone says I’m spoiled; he does cook wonderful gourmet dinners at least four times a week for us, so I guess you can say I am!

The shops are open daily from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Restaurants and bars are open until 2 a.m. For a complete list of the stores click on their website, Bercy Village.

Cour Saint-Emilion
28 Rue François Truffaut
Paris 12
M° Cour Saint-Emilion

Photo Credits: Flickr

Share This

Paris has always been a city made up of little villages called quartiers. When you live in an area for some time, you begin to know your local merchants and they begin to know you as well, but more often than not, people just don’t seem to know their neighbors very well.

Well all that started to change when a website called Peuplade started bringing people in each village a lot closer together. The way it works is sort of like a virtual bullentin board. You answer a questionaire about yourself, (there are no questions about jobs, sex, or age to keep away any type of discrimination) and voilà, all the details that you have given appears on a map of your quartier and people can get in contact with you or you with them.

This isn’t just your average “I’m looking for a baby-sitter for my kids.”, or “I’m selling my old bike.” type of board. It’s more about meeting your neighbors who may have the same sort of interests you have, like jogging together. Or perhaps you can do an exchange with a neighbor watering your plants while you’re on holiday, and then you taking care of their cat while they’re on theirs.

Peuplade post upcoming events, like having an “apéro de quartier”, (a friendly drink at the local café, bistro or bar), or a neighborhood outing, or a dinner party. They even have get-togethers on the Métro! On June 5 there’s an apéro in the open air at La Defense starting around 20h next to the carousel. Bring your own drinks and food so everyone can watch the sunset together. So far, 173 people have signed on for this evening picnic.

This idea started in the 17 arrond. and has proven to be so popular that it is spreading throughout Paris. Even apartment buildings are starting their own mini-peuplade. In large cities where so many single people can feel lonely, this is a great idea. Like they say, “If you don’t want to eat alone tonight, or perhaps you want to go see a film with a group, …. then come to one of our meeting places and there’ll be at least 2 or 3 happy people to join you!” As a matter of fact, people have become fast friends and some have already fallen in love; there’s a Peuplade baby who has joined the ranks!

I love this idea! It shows how really connected we all are to one another. Six degrees of seperation! I’m not sure, however, if it would work in large cities in some countries like the U.S. It’s too bad, but it’s also a whole different mentality where crime is high and people are afraid of letting strangers know personal details about their lives.

Photo Credits: Flickr

Share This

I love the Luxembourg Gardens and I love Lalique, so it was a nice surprise when a friend and I were walking through the Gardens and happened upon an exhibit by René Lalique at the Musée du Luxembourg. Lalique is known as the inventor of modern jewelry and was very influential in the Art Nouveau style during the Belle Epoque.

The exhibit contains a vast number of works by the master himself which includes some 150 drawings, paintings, photographs, as well as glass pieces and jewelry, most which were created between 1890 to 1912. There are a number of pieces that have never been displayed before.

I can’t say I would be inspired to combine animals, insects, and jewelry, but that’s why I’m not the one having the exhibit! Lalique’s masterpieces displayed here, however, are a feast for the eyes! The exhibit which began in March and continues until July 29 is quite popular, but you can purchase tickets in advance at Billet-Coupe-File for 1 € more. Price of tickets: 11 €, full fare, 9 € for 10-25 yr. olds, handicapped people, and art teachers. Free for children under ten.

Musée du Luxembourg
19 Rue de Vaugirard
Paris 6
M° Saint-Sulpice or Mabillon *
RER: Luxembourg

* Métro stations Saint-Sulpice and Mabillon are closer to the museum than Cluny La Sorbonne or Odéon.

Photo Credit: Flickr

Share This

So you’ve been in Paris for awhile and you still haven’t met any Parisians to tell your friends about when you get home, well fear not. There’s a restaurant in the 13th arrondissement where you can rub elbows with the locals; and when I say “rub elbows” I’m not exaggerating!

Le Temp des Cerises is a worker’s co-operative restaurant run by a number of people all taking turns doing different jobs. The atmosphere is congenial, where you’re treated more like an old friend rather than a customer. As a matter of fact, a friend of mine invited me to have dinner there and I thought she knew the guy who greeted us. (When you “tutoies” someone, you usually are friends, but this wasn’t the case.)

We were seated,… well actually we squeezed ourselves into our seats next to diners on both sides of us, and as I said before, we were literally rubbing elbows with our neighbors. As for conversation, you can’t help but eavesdrop in such close proximity, so it’s easy to begin chatting with everyone else around you. No, this is not a restaurant where you want to have an intimate romantic dinner!

The food was good, the service friendly, the wine excellent; I would hope so for 28 € a bottle. But what I really discovered was a great quartier. I must admit, the 13th arrondissement is not my usual hangout, but this “little village” made up of a couple of streets, mainly the Rue de La Butte aux Cailles and Rue des Cinq Diamants are a real find. There are a number of shops, restaurants, and bars on this little hill that students and locals frequent. As I hopped on the back of Odri’s scooter it was starting to drizzle, but I was thinking, it’s definitely a place I want to explore further.

Le Temps des Cerises
28-20 Rue de la Butte aux Cailles
tel. 01.45.89.69.48
Mon-Sat: 11h45 - 14h15 & 19h30 - 23h45.
M°: Corvisart or Place-d’Italie
(No reservations and no cellphones. I guess they figure there’s enough talk going on between customers, they don’t need phone conversations to add to the cacophony!)

Photo Credit: La Lune

Share This

And I don’t mean the Tour de France! Bicycling in the streets of Paris has doubled in popularity since the new millennium thanks to bicycle paths, (370 km worth and counting), that have sprouted up throughout the city. Well you haven’t seen anything yet! Starting this summer there will be nearly 750 stations where you can rent a bike at one place and drop it off at another.

The goal from city government is to have 1,451 stations and 20,600 bikes in operation by the end of the year! They envision a station about every 300 metres (328 yds). The service will be available 24/7 which is a blessing all its own. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve run through the passageways in the Métro trying to catch that final connection, only to learn that I missed my last train going home! Well now there’s another way besides taking a taxis.

This is a great idea, not only will it bring the pollution down in the city, but it’ll also be a good form of exercise. Many Parisians would love to own a bike, but have nowhere to store it. Problem solved! As for the tourists, it’ll be a fun and new way of discovering Paris. The only people I hear complaining, besides the cab drivers, are the other motorists. They hate the fact that their road space is being swallowed up by bike paths, but as the saying goes, you can’t please all the people all of the time.

The first half hour is free, and what’s great about it is, going at a normal pace, most cyclists can easily reach their destination within that period of time. If you need to hop off and go into a shop for example, no problem, there will be 30,000 anti-theft parking places were you can hook up your bike and leave it.

The way it works is you buy a Velib Card or Ticket for either a year, a week, or a day at one of their stations. If you subscribe for a year (29 €), you have an unlimited number of rides for the year, with the first 30 minutes free. If you go over the limit, your card is deducted much like a debit card.

The weekly ticket is 5 €, the one day is 1 €, which works roughly the same way; if you go over the 30 minutes alloted, the price is 1 €, over the second 30 minutes, 2 €, afterwards each additonal 30 minutes is 4 €.

Have fun riding around Paris, and imagine being able to eat all this wonderful French food and not putting on a pound when you get back home! Don’t forget the rules of the road; on many of the larger avenues there are traffic lights, and signs, just for cyclists that you need to follow, no riding on the sidewalks, and pedestrians have the right of way!

Photo Credits: Flickr

Share This

Tennis lovers, what better place to watch a great match than at the French Open? The big news this season is the prize money for the women’s tounament will be the same as for the men! Finally women are becoming equal partners as they well should be! Some of the best matches in tennis have been played between women!

The official starting date is May 27 until June 10th. You can buy tickets in advance. Starting price for first round games begin at 315 €. For the semi-finals and finals, prices do jump. Women’s finals run: 435 € on the upper level; 615 € for the lower level.  Men’s finals cost 595 € for the upper level; 865 € for the lower level.

If you think the prices are a little steep, you can always wait and go to the ticket window, Porte des Mousquetaires, Avenue Gordon-Bennett from the 21st of May. Tickets that haven’t been sold, will be put on sale at that time. They open at 9 a.m. and only accept cash and bank cards.

The easiest way to get there; Métro Porte d’Auteuil or Porte de Saint-Cloud. Free shuttle buses run from the Métro entrances to the stadium. It beats the hassles of parking.  Tennis anyone?

Photo Credit: Flickr

Share This