The Paris Traveler

Tired of doing the touristy things in Paris? Tired of sitting on the hard chairs at the Luxembourg and Tuileries Gardens and not be able to walk or sit on the grass? Or are you just plain tired of the hustle and bustle now that you’ve been in the City of Lights for awhile?

Then why not go over to the Butte Chaumont in the 19e arrondissement where you can actually sit on the grass by the lake?! It’s the third largest park in Paris with 61 acres of grass, trees, and water, including the Belvédère Island. You can climb up to the Temple de la Sibylle built in 1869, with a waterfall and a grotto to explore along the way. There are two bridges: one is a suspension bridge, the other is called le Pont des Suicidés, the Suiciders’ Bridge. (No kidding!)

It’s easy to spend the entire day here, but I suggest visiting the surrounding neighborhoods. Some great places to explore that few tourists go to see are the houses, (not apartments) sitting on top of a hill that have a great view of Paris! (I sigh everytime I walk these little streets dreaming that I own a house here!)

If you leave the park, you can walk to either the Avenue Simon Bolivar (near #60 and the Rue Barrelet de Ricou) or the Rue Manin (near #23 and the Rue Philippe-Hecht ). Climb the stairs; both will take you up to several little streets above. (Believe me when you live in Paris, you don’t need a stairmaster!) The Rue Edgar Poe and Rue Rémy de Gourmont, are where these beautiful houses make you feel like all of a sudden you’re no longer in Paris, but in a tiny little village instead.

Somewhat further away, but still within walking distance are several more streets with two and three story individual homes. If you leave the park near the Rue Botzaris cross over the Rue de Crimée and walk down the Rue du Général Brunet until you arrive at the Rue Compans on your right. Continue down Rue Compans until the very end which meets up with the Rue Louise Thuliez. Turn left until you reach a 3-way fork in the road; (the Rue des Lilas, Rue Prés Saint-Gervais, and the Rue des Bois), take the latter until Rue Emile Desvaux on the right. This street along with the Rue Paul de Kock have some gorgeous townhouses tucked away from the large avenues which remind me of parts of London and Dublin.

By now you’re probably tired of walking; no need to worry, a métro station is nearby. Walk until the end of Rue Emile Desvaux and turn right on the Rue de Romainville, within minutes you’ll see the Métro Télégraphe. Cross the Rue de Belleville, at #40 Rue du Télégraphe, now you are at the highest point in Paris, but unfortunately there isn’t a spectacular view to appreciate this fact. When you enter the métro station, however, once inside as you descend further and further down into the métro, you’ll realize just how far uphill you have spent the day climbing!

Next time I’ll tell you about another area of the 19e called the Quartier Amérique, but for now I’m sure it’ll be good to get home and take off those walking shoes!

Photo Credits: Flickr

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