One of the most famous museums in the world is the Louvre, or more correctly the Musée du Louvre, and it was one of the items that was high on my Paris must-see list. It is located on the Right Bank (of the Seine) in the 1st arrondissement.

Originally a palace, the museum is now home to some of the most world-famous works of art, including the Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, and Aphrodite/Venus de Milo. It opened to the public in 1793, and since then the collections have grown to their current number of over 380,000. It’s not the largest collection in the world, but most art historians argue that it is the finest.

The main buildings of the Louvre look rather fortress-like, and much like I would imagine a fortress to have been, once inside the gates, there are all sorts of lovely things to see.

The central courtyard houses the Louvre Pyramid, and serves as the main entrance to the museum. The Pyramid was designed by architect I.M. Pei, and beneath it is the underground lobby to the museum. There are several entrances into the courtyard, and all will get you to the Pyramid, so if you are encountering crowds at one courtyard entrance, just walk around to another one.

The Louvre is organized into eight departments, displaying artwork up to 1848. You’ll see work by Rembrandt, Rubens, Titian, Van Dyck, and Leonardo da Vinci.

There is so much stuff to see, that tackling the Louvre can be a daunting task. It is too big to see everything in one day, so unless you have several days to dedicate to viewing it, you will have to come up with a plan of attack.

Continue reading for suggestion on the best way to see the Louvre –

The two best methods for making the Louvre manageable, I think, are to either select a couple of departments that interest you, or to make a list of specific items of art that interest you. A third option, and the one that I took, was a combination. I chose a couple of departments that held the most interest for me (paintings, prints and drawings, and decorative arts) and saw those in some depth. I zipped rather quickly through some of the sculptures and other departments, just checking out the highlights or major displays.

You can use the museum’s online interactive maps and floorplans to help you plan out your approach. You can also take a virtual tour.

To reach the Louvre via Métro, use the Palais-Royal-Musée stop. If you’re traveling by Batobus, get off at the Louvre stop, quai Francois Mitterrand. Bus lines also stop in front of the main entrance at the Pyramid.

The Louvre is closed on Tuesdays, and is open from 9 am – 6 pm daily, with extended hours (till 10 pm) on Wednesday and Friday evenings. It is closed some holidays, so if you are visiting during that time, be sure to double check for holiday hours.

There are several ticket options to see the Louvre. Tickets for the permanent collections are €9 (about $13.50) and provides access for everything except the temporary exhibitions in the Hall Napoléon, and is also valid for the Delacroix Museum. Tickets for the temporary exhibitions are €6 (about $9). A combined ticket represents the best value, as is €9,50 (about $13.75). The Louvre is also covered by the Paris Museum Pass.

And how cool is this: Admission is free for the unemployed, minimum wage-earners, registered disabled (identity card required), those under 18 years of age, and teaches of art history, archaeology, and applied or plastic arts.

I recommend buying advance tickets, or the Paris Museum Pass, as doing so will allow you to bypass the lines using the Passage Richelieu, Porte des Lions, and Galerie du Carrousel entrances. Although the line wasn’t terribly long the day I visited, I still estimate that I was able to save about 45 minutes of time by heading to the front of the queue.

My reflection on visiting the Louvre primarily centered around the expectations that I had for the visit. While I VERY glad that I spent the time to see it, I realized fairly quickly that it was not my favorite art period. Still, I saw some pretty impressive pieces, works by some renowned artists, and go a sampling of European History.

Other observations: The Mona Lisa really is small like they say, and you have to stand way far away from it (behind me in the photo above). Venus de Milo is very cool. Napolean had some seriously great furnishings (photos above).

Not a bad way to spend a day in Paris.

Photo credit: personal collection

Post from: The Paris Traveler

Since a good portion of my time in Paris was spent visiting museums, the Paris Museum Pass was both a money saver and time saver.

With the pass, you get admission to a number of monuments and museums in and around Paris. Best of all — you don’t have to stand in those long lines — you get to bypass all those people and go straight to the front of the line. Temporary exhibits at the museums are usually excluded, though.

The pass can be purchased for 2, 4, or 6 days, and currently costs 30, 45, and 60 euros respectively. (Check the website for pricing changes.)

On your first visit to one of the museums or monuments, the pass is activated, and your time starts running. This allows you to buy the pass in advance, should you wish. You can buy the pass online, at participating museums and monuments (I purchases mine at the Louvre), or at any Paris Tourist Office.

I planned my museum visits so that I could maximize the value of the pass, taking note of the location, travel time, open days and hours of each that I wanted to visit. I knew that I couldn’t see everything, but with good planning I was able to save a lot over individual admission prices AND speed up the process by avoiding lines. You can find the full list of museums and monuments online.

With a four day pass, I was able to take in the following:

• Arc de Triomphe (regular admission is 8 euros)
• Centre Pompidou (regular admission is 10 euros)
• Conciergerie (combined admission with Sainte-Chapelle is 9 euros)
• Louvre (regular admission is 8,50 euros)
• Museum d’Orsay (regular admission is 7,50 euros)
• Pantheon (regular admission is 7 euros)
• Rodin Museum (regular admission is 6 euros)
• Sainte-Chapelle

For me this represented a savings of 11 euros (about $16) over regular admissions, and savings in time of several hours avoiding lines. Granted, I had to cram a lot of visits into a short period of time, but I tried to find a good balance of art, architecture, history, food, and fun every day. It worked for me, but it you would prefer a slower pace, get a longer pass.

Additional considerations when deciding if the Paris Museum Pass is for you: Most museums are free for those under age 16, and offered reduced admissions for those 16-25 years of age. Many museums also offer free admissions at least one day of the month.

If the museums and monuments are on your to-do list in Paris, a Paris Museum Pass can be a savings in more ways than one.

Photos: personal collection

Post from: The Paris Traveler

Standing in the center of the Place Charles de Gaulle (also called the Place de l’Étoile) at the western end of the Champs-Élyseés, the Arc de Triomphe is the largest triumphal arch in the world. 

It honors those who bravely fought for France, particularly during the Napoleonic Wars.  ,  Beneath the arch is the tomb of the unknown soldier from World War I, marked by the very first eternal flame.  The flame burns in memory of those who died, but were not identified, in both WWI and WWII.  An inscription reads “Here lies a French soldier who died for his fatherland 1914-1918” (translated here into English).

The arch stands about 165 feet tall, and measures about 148 feet wide, and around it is a roundabout that is one of the busiest in Paris.  Do not try to dodge in and out of this traffic!  That would be dangerous, and brand you as a serious nutcase.  While I watched, I saw many people tempted by it – but fortunately no one crazy enough to actually attempt it.

You can reach the arch sensibly by following the signs to the underground passage way that will take you beneath the crazy roundabout to the arch.  From there you can take a short elevator ride back to ground level or climb the stairs.  In the photo above you see me waving at you before heading to the passageway to cross over.

What will you see?  Keep reading to find out!

Spend some time walking around the Arc de Triomphe looking at the sculptured facade.  A few highlights include a winged figure of Victory, a sculpture of Napoleon, and the 30 shields (each representing a victorious battle) on the crown of the arch.  On the inside and top of the arch are inscribed the names of generals and battles fought, with the names of those who died in battle underlined.  Conveniently missing are some of Napoleon’s later battles.

If you’re up to it, climb the 284 steps to the top of the arch.  There is no elevator!  The steps are stone, and the passageway narrow and circular.  It’s okay if you need to stop and catch your breath – most people did.

Once at the top, you’ll be treated to magnificent views in all directions.  Take a look around and you’ll see 12 major arterials leading into the Place (for an example, look at the photo below).  Watch how the merge into the roundabout, and you’ll have a real appreciation for driving in Paris.  There are fabulous photo opportunities from the top, and since the Arc is open late, it’s a favorite spot for sunset and evening photos.

You can reach the Arc de Triomphe by RER line A (train) and Métro (subway), getting off at the Charles de Gaulle-Étoile stop.

It is open daily from 10 am – 11 pm, and closes a half hour earlier during the fall and winter months.  There is no charge to walk around the base of the arch.  Access to the top was €7 when I was there, and kids under 18 are free.  Admission is also covered as part of the Paris Museum Pass.

The Arc de Triomphe was one of my favorite monuments in Paris, and is probably the most famous in Paris.  I’d put it on a must-see list for a Paris trip, for its historical significance, art, and views.  Allow half an hour or so to explore the ground level, and an additional hour (or more) if you are going to go to the top.

Photos credit:  all from personal collection

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Post from: The Paris Traveler

No, this isn’t some gruesome tale about an  ancient axe murder having taken  place in the streets of Paris.  Actually, it is a bit of history and I know it’s summer vacation and brains have been turned off but I think you are going to like this.  When you are in Paris, you can amaze those in your traveling party with this bit of information.  

The Axe Historique is a line of monuments that slices through the center of Paris, east to west.  It had its beginnings with the Champs Elysée, created in the 17th century.  It extended the the central  axis of the Tuileries, enhancing the vista one comes upon as they walk through this beautiful garden.  At the western most point of the gardens is a magnificent gate and beyond that, lined up perfectly is Place de la Concorde,  with the Obélisque taking your eye forward.  

Looking east, the Tuileries faced a large square,  the Place de Carrousel, which  stands in front of the inner courtyard  of the Louvre.  It is here that Napoleon ordered the Arc de Triomphe de Carrousel be built in honor of his military triumphs of 1805.  Although built before the Arc de Triomphe, it was his original hope to create a monument as large as the latter, but thankfully, wiser minds surrounding him were able to keep his ego in check.  The result is a beautifully done arc, patterned after the Arch of Septius Severus in Rome.  This is the farthest eastern  point of the axe.

Facing west again, strolling along the Champs Elysée, you will  come upon the Arc de Triomphe, completed in 1836 in the Place de L’Etoile, honoring all those who fought for France, particularly during the Napoleonic wars.  It is home to France’s Unknown Soldier and it is here that former First Lady, Jacqueline Kennedy, saw the eternal flame during a trip to Paris with her husband, President Kennedy.  After his assassination, this memory was the inspiration for the eternal flame next to her husband’s grave at Arlington National Cemetery.  We are linked to France in more ways than we realize!!

Finally, the farthest point west on the Axe Historique, beyond  the Avenue de la Grande Armée and outside Paris proper, is the contemporary cousin  to the Arc de Triomphe,  La Grande Arche.  François Mitterand was responsible for this stylized arch, a monument to humanity and humanitarian ideals as opposed to military victories.  You have to love that! 

OK, people.  That was a lot of information.  We covered a lot of history and geography and now its time to go forth and see it for yourself.  You can easily walk most of it.  Starting at the Arc de la Carrousel, you can spend a leisurely afternoon strolling towards the Arc de Triomphe.  From there you can hop on the metro, taking the 1 line to La Defense.  Or you can just sit in the Tuileries, order a glass of wine, gaze westward and say you did all that.  To each his own.

Photo credit:  Wikipedia 

Post from: The Paris Traveler

More than three centuries after being torn down by revolutionaries, wanting their king’s head, the gates at Versailles have been recreated in all their original splendor.

 This past Monday, officials unveiled these beautiful golden gates that have been painstakingly replicated over the past two years, bringing back to life the Barouque artistry originally created by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, architect to Louis XIV.  It was Hardouin-Mansart who was responsible for creating many of the significant buildings of this period that were meant to convey the king’s wealth and power.

 At a cost of eight million dollars, generated by private donors which is rare in France, these gates stand guard to the entrance of the “cour d’honneur” and should not be missed. If you can’t get there anytime soon, take a look at this video to see what all the fuss is about.

 France 24-Versailles’ golden gates recreated after 200 years

Photo credit:   ana feliciano@flickr

Post from: The Paris Traveler

 A quick overview of the city:  Dijon is located in eastern France about an hour and 40 minutes outside of Paris by high speed train.  (Gare de Lyon station is where you would catch it) and is the historical capital of Burgundy–and people, what does one find in Burgundy?  Yes, that’s right, some of the best wine in the world!!!  It is also home to crème de cassis, or blackberry liqueur.  When combined with white wine it becomes a Kir or with champagne a Kir Royal.  Speaking from experience, both are wonderful and should not be missed when traveling in France.  A perfect aperitif.  I can always link life back to a good glass of wine.  

 The architecture in the region of Burgundy is distinguished by toits bourguignons (Burgundian roofs–love that word, Burgundian) that are made of colorful glazed tiles arranged in geometric patterns.  Beautiful!

A typical street in the center of old town. This area is filled with some of the best preserved examples of medieval half-timbered buildings.  Dijon, miraculously, remained fairly unscathed by bombing during World War II.

 I can’t help but think mustard when I hear the word Dijon.  And that’s because, this is home to that famous, clear-your-sinus’-right-out spread.  I have had moments of panic when I’ve become partially paralyzed from taking a bite of something with too much Dijon, but I always go back for more.  Sort of that pleasurable pain thing. Anyway, yes, it is made here and you will find all sorts of exotic fruit flavored mustard as well, sold in beautiful faience pots.  I feel good knowing that at the end of of a stressful day, my daughter will be able to kick back with a glass of wine and a shot of mustard as this young girl is demonstrating

 She will be able to nibble on fabulous cheese plates like you see here.  The stuff that passes for cheese in the states is really flavorless hunks of white plastic.  See the bleu cheese on this plate?  I hated bleu cheese before I went to France.  Wouldn’t touch it. To find a piece of it on a cheese platter in Paris, or any part of France, is a gift from the gods.  So many things for you to try–Kirs, bleu cheese….let’s get going.

Additional information:  about.com, hotels in Dijon, TGV

Photo credit:  wikipedia, flickr: garethac, photo nuevo

Post from: The Paris Traveler

 The City of Light is planning on turning down the wattage a bit in an attempt to save energy (more greening of Paris) and address the disturbances it is causing to nature and astronomers.  This light pollution issue is felt throughout Europe and is causing migratory birds to lose their bearings, vegetables are behaving badly and certain insects are dying out.  

France, the worst offender is working to replace their street lamps with low-energy ones but still burns 1,200 megawatts which is the output of one nuclear power station.  Just a bit scary.  Already there is resistance (one more thing for the French to argue about) as many members of the town council are proud of the spectacular lighting showcasing the bridges and facades of the more famous buildings.  

Ville Lumière became the name associated with the city of Paris during the enlightenment, referring to all it’s “bright minds”.   While bright minds still exist, today this moniker has taken on new meaning.   For how beautiful the city is in the daylight, nothing compares to the transformation that takes place at night.  It is breathtaking and if you haven’t seen it, you better hightail it over there before the lights go out!

Photo credit:  photogirllz@flicker 

Post from: The Paris Traveler

 I have walked by this place millions of times on my way to Palais Royal and was unaware of its illustrious history.  Built in 1855, it reigned supreme in Paris for nearly a decade until the same brothers outdid even themselves with the 700 room Grand Hôtel.  I do believe these two gentlemen paved the way for the modern day Ian Schrager.  

Some additional tags to hotels that still exist and remain 4-star wonders:  

Hôtel de Crillon

Hôtel Majestic

Hôtel Meurice 

Hôtel Montaigne 

 Hôtel Plaza

 All these hotels continue to be landmarks in Paris and offer the finest in accomodations.  I can personally speak to Hôtel Montaigne as I stayed there in November.  It is located in the Golden Triangle and was a wonderful place to call home at the end of my day.  

I have linked you to all the sites which are beautiful in their own right and will whisk you away for a few minutes.  Who knows…..you might be inspired to make a reservation!

Additional information and photo credit:  Tabacaria.com 

Post from: The Paris Traveler

Flying Firemen

Feeding the youth knowledge!  Let’s hope this is an all boys school.

Hearing the newspaper. 

Big Brother watching over us.

“Scout cyclists”.  Reminds me of security guards on Segways at the malls.

Fighting traffic on the avenue l’Opera.

I leave you with my personal favorite:   “One for the road”.  I would LOVE a fly through wine bar.  I would be a nightmare flying and drinking.  Leave it to the French to come up with this!

Additional Information:  Bibliothèque Nationale 

 Photo credit:  Bibliothèque Nationale

Post from: The Paris Traveler

 Manefestations, protests, strikes–they are all part of the French culture.  You disagree with a policy or want higher pay, as a collective group you take your cause to the streets, much the same way your ancestors did hundreds of years before you.  It is in your blood, it is your birth right, it is how politics occasionally are shaped here in France.  

I do not profess to be a  political analyst by any stretch of the imagination.  But the strategies used by the French intrigue me.  Manifestations, or strikes, would be announced in the papers and on the news days before the actual event–a warning if you will, of the inconveniences you will be sure to experience in the near future.  There was no surprise attack like I am use to here in the states.  I don’t remember ever being “warned” of a possible walkout.  They just happened.

 I have been involved in several transportation strikes both while I lived in Paris and as a tourist.  I can tell you, it is incredibly inconvenient for everyone.  Cars clog streets that are already suffering from a crazy amount of traffic and they become parking lots.I had no way to get my daughter to school if the buses weren’t running and had no idea if that was an excused absence.  The métro is more sardine like than usual and cabs, forget it! I had to fight with a gentleman as I had flagged one down, negotiated with the driver to take me to Roissy, ran back into the hotel lobby to get my bags and he was trying to take it.  I don’t think so mister–you are messing with the wrong person.  It was not one of my best moments!

In 2006, as the country was dealing with some of the highest unemployment in it’s history,  former Prime Minister Dominique de Villepin made a bold move to revamp what appeared to me to be an out-dated labor law.  As it stood, one could be hired with little recourse for employers to do away with individuals that didn’t work out without paying large penalties for firing them.   Accountability on the part of the employee seemed to be missing.   It made no sense to me that all this dead wood was allowed to accumulate and business’ hands were tied.  Students, the very same students who were also complaining about being unemployed, took to the streets in protest against the law, essentially protesting for no change and no solution to the problem.  I have to say, even though the ensuing situation brought Monsieur Villepin’s presidential hopes to an abrupt end, I admired his thinking and awareness that things must be changed in order to move forward.  The right to protest is deeply ingrained in the French psyche, so much so that now young students, high schoolers are taking to the streets locking arms against reforms in national education.  Sarkozy who must have smirked through his rival’s trials back in 2006, now gets a taste of the same medicine.   

Briefly, I have to share my favorite manifestation experience.  Coming home one afternoon, the main cross street by my apartment, Avenue Bosquet, was closed off to all traffic and filled with both “protesters” and gendarmes. I texted my daughter at school, giving her a heads up that she might not be able to make it all the way home by bus and explained the situation.  As I made my way through the crowd, unsure of what to expect, not knowing if bottle rockets might go off or rocks would be thrown through store front windows, I stayed as far away from the police as I could so not to be confused with the protesters.  But this didn’t feel threatening.  As a matter of fact, everyone was standing around drinking wine, eating cheese and baguettes and offering both to me as I walked by.  It had the trappings of a festive street party.  I came across someone who spoke English and was able to explain the whole situation:  the mime and interpretive dance unions were holding their annual protest for I have no idea what but just because they could!   A silent protest–it was odd.   

Additional information:

•  Sarkozy set to collide with culture of protest (iht.com), 
•  Opponents Set April 17 Deadline to Rescind French Labor Law (nytimes.com)

Photo Credit:  (Thibault Camus/The Associated Press), flickr, themarkpike

Post from: The Paris Traveler