The Paris Traveler

Fall in Love with the Louvre

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 07:25:49 +0000

Today’s guest post is from Mary Jo Manzanares, Travel & Culture Channel Editor and travel blogger at Flyaway Cafe.

One of the most famous museums in the world is the Louvre, or more correctly the Musée du Louvre, and it was one of the items that was high on my Paris must-see list. It is located on the Right Bank (of the Seine) in the 1st arrondissement.

Originally a palace, the museum is now home to some of the most world-famous works of art, including the Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, and Aphrodite/Venus de Milo. It opened to the public in 1793, and since then the collections have grown to their current number of over 380,000. It’s not the largest collection in the world, but most art historians argue that it is the finest.

The main buildings of the Louvre look rather fortress-like, and much like I would imagine a fortress to have been, once inside the gates, there are all sorts of lovely things to see.

The central courtyard houses the Louvre Pyramid, and serves as the main entrance to the museum. The Pyramid was designed by architect I.M. Pei, and beneath it is the underground lobby to the museum. There are several entrances into the courtyard, and all will get you to the Pyramid, so if you are encountering crowds at one courtyard entrance, just walk around to another one.

The Louvre is organized into eight departments, displaying artwork up to 1848. You’ll see work by Rembrandt, Rubens, Titian, Van Dyck, and Leonardo da Vinci.

There is so much stuff to see, that tackling the Louvre can be a daunting task. It is too big to see everything in one day, so unless you have several days to dedicate to viewing it, you will have to come up with a plan of attack.

Continue reading for suggestion on the best way to see the Louvre –

The two best methods for making the Louvre manageable, I think, are to either select a couple of departments that interest you, or to make a list of specific items of art that interest you. A third option, and the one that I took, was a combination. I chose a couple of departments that held the most interest for me (paintings, prints and drawings, and decorative arts) and saw those in some depth. I zipped rather quickly through some of the sculptures and other departments, just checking out the highlights or major displays.

You can use the museum’s online interactive maps and floorplans to help you plan out your approach. You can also take a virtual tour.

To reach the Louvre via Métro, use the Palais-Royal-Musée stop. If you’re traveling by Batobus, get off at the Louvre stop, quai Francois Mitterrand. Bus lines also stop in front of the main entrance at the Pyramid.

The Louvre is closed on Tuesdays, and is open from 9 am – 6 pm daily, with extended hours (till 10 pm) on Wednesday and Friday evenings. It is closed some holidays, so if you are visiting during that time, be sure to double check for holiday hours.

There are several ticket options to see the Louvre. Tickets for the permanent collections are €9 (about $13.50) and provides access for everything except the temporary exhibitions in the Hall Napoléon, and is also valid for the Delacroix Museum. Tickets for the temporary exhibitions are €6 (about $9). A combined ticket represents the best value, as is €9,50 (about $13.75). The Louvre is also covered by the Paris Museum Pass.

And how cool is this: Admission is free for the unemployed, minimum wage-earners, registered disabled (identity card required), those under 18 years of age, and teaches of art history, archaeology, and applied or plastic arts.

I recommend buying advance tickets, or the Paris Museum Pass, as doing so will allow you to bypass the lines using the Passage Richelieu, Porte des Lions, and Galerie du Carrousel entrances. Although the line wasn’t terribly long the day I visited, I still estimate that I was able to save about 45 minutes of time by heading to the front of the queue.

My reflection on visiting the Louvre primarily centered around the expectations that I had for the visit. While I VERY glad that I spent the time to see it, I realized fairly quickly that it was not my favorite art period. Still, I saw some pretty impressive pieces, works by some renowned artists, and go a sampling of European History.

Other observations: The Mona Lisa really is small like they say, and you have to stand way far away from it (behind me in the photo above). Venus de Milo is very cool. Napolean had some seriously great furnishings (photos above).

Not a bad way to spend a day in Paris.

Photo credit: personal collection

Post from: The Paris Traveler

No Hotel in Paris? Try an Apartment

Sun, 16 Nov 2008 07:39:16 +0000

Today’s guest post is from Mary Jo Manzanares, Travel & Culture Channel Editor and travel blogger at Flyaway Cafe.

When I headed off to Paris a couple months ago, it was a bit of a last minute trip. I had been wanting to make the trip for quite some time, but had to make some changes to the actual travel dates at the last minute. You can make things work at the last minute, so if you find yourself in this position, don’t abandon your plans, just dig in and make it work.

When I set my travel dates, I set them around my schedule, and didn’t pay attention to what was going on in Paris. It turned out that the Rugby World Cup was being held during the time I planned to be there. The downside of that was that all the moderately priced hotels were booked up. In fact, I couldn’t find hotel availability at all, even stretching the budget to $500 night.

While my traveling companion would have been perfectly happy to stay at a local American chain, and that was the back up plan, I was determined to find something oozing with French charm and ambience.

Undaunted by the seemingly Herculean task in front of me, I checked out all the hotel websites that had anything in Paris. I sent off lots of emails and reservations requests. The answers were all the same — no availability for the time I was going to be there.

Next I emailed friends and bloggers who were in Europe, or those who had recently visited France, asking for suggestions and ideas. I got a ton of responses and helpful suggestions, but I still didn’t find any place with availability. Until one friend suggested trying to find an apartment.

Hmmmm! I hadn’t thought of that. What a great idea! With less than 48 hours before I had to get on an airplane, it was an idea that needed to be acted upon quickly.

There are a number of companies that handle apartment rentals in France. If I had thoroughly checked them out, I would be happy to list and link to them here. But I didn’t do any due diligence (something that I never recommending skipping), instead trusting my bank of travel karma to make it all work out.

I found a listing for a studio apartment in the 4th arrondissement, close to the Bastille métro, that sounded promising and affordable. There were photos, and although I tend not to trust these type of photos, I wasn’t in a position to be too choosy. It was conveniently located in a nice neighborhood, so it had to be full of the charm and ambience that I was looking for.

I placed the call, spoke to Michael, a very nice guy in New York, and with hours to spare we handled the business end of things. Before you could say bon voyage I was on a plane en route to Paris.

So how did it work out? Keep reading to find out. . . .

Upon arrival at Charles de Gaulle airport, I took the train into the city, made one transfer, and found myself coming out of the station for my first view of Paris.

The apartment was a very short walk from the métro but because of my bumbling about it took me about half an hour to walk the block and a half. I chalked it up to flying all night, little sleep, and my lack of French language along with a healthy dose of excitement about FINALLY getting to Paris.

The entrance was through a large green double door that opened into a terrace with a couple of small tables and chairs. I’m sure that during the warmer weather this is a very popular place to sit and have morning coffee or a glass of wine.

The apartment itself was just as described, with a lovely salon, a remarkably spacious and efficient bathroom (with shower), and a small kitchen (which I only used for opening wine and keeping water and cheese in the refrigerator).

Over the week that I was there, the neighborhood became familiar and comfortable. I felt safe walking around during the day and in the wee hours as well. I found my favorite cafe for my morning coffee and croissant, a frommagerie and wine shop, and some local restaurants. It was a perfect location for my days of exploration, whether by train or foot. It was everything that I had hoped for more.

While I certainly don’t recommend that you wait till the last minute to plan a trip, don’t let the fact that it’s a last minute opportunity get in the way. There are ways to make nearly everything work.

I didn’t stay in the hotel room that I had originally planned. But what worked out was even better. For a very short time I could feel like a resident of Paris.

NOTE: For anyone interested in specific information about the apartment, you can email Michael at paris@idiom.tv.

Photos: personal collection

Post from: The Paris Traveler

Does it Make Sense to Buy a Paris Museum Pass

Sun, 16 Nov 2008 07:20:01 +0000

Today’s guest post is from Mary Jo Manzanares, Travel & Culture Channel Editor and travel blogger at Flyaway Cafe.

Since a good portion of my time in Paris was spent visiting museums, the Paris Museum Pass was both a money saver and time saver.

With the pass, you get admission to a number of monuments and museums in and around Paris. Best of all — you don’t have to stand in those long lines — you get to bypass all those people and go straight to the front of the line. Temporary exhibits at the museums are usually excluded, though.

The pass can be purchased for 2, 4, or 6 days, and currently costs 30, 45, and 60 euros respectively. (Check the website for pricing changes.)

On your first visit to one of the museums or monuments, the pass is activated, and your time starts running. This allows you to buy the pass in advance, should you wish. You can buy the pass online, at participating museums and monuments (I purchases mine at the Louvre), or at any Paris Tourist Office.

I planned my museum visits so that I could maximize the value of the pass, taking note of the location, travel time, open days and hours of each that I wanted to visit. I knew that I couldn’t see everything, but with good planning I was able to save a lot over individual admission prices AND speed up the process by avoiding lines. You can find the full list of museums and monuments online.

With a four day pass, I was able to take in the following:

Arc de Triomphe (regular admission is 8 euros)
Centre Pompidou (regular admission is 10 euros)
Conciergerie (combined admission with Sainte-Chapelle is 9 euros)
Louvre (regular admission is 8,50 euros)
Museum d’Orsay (regular admission is 7,50 euros)
Pantheon (regular admission is 7 euros)
Rodin Museum (regular admission is 6 euros)
Sainte-Chapelle

For me this represented a savings of 11 euros (about $16) over regular admissions, and savings in time of several hours avoiding lines. Granted, I had to cram a lot of visits into a short period of time, but I tried to find a good balance of art, architecture, history, food, and fun every day. It worked for me, but it you would prefer a slower pace, get a longer pass.

Additional considerations when deciding if the Paris Museum Pass is for you: Most museums are free for those under age 16, and offered reduced admissions for those 16-25 years of age. Many museums also offer free admissions at least one day of the month.

If the museums and monuments are on your to-do list in Paris, a Paris Museum Pass can be a savings in more ways than one.

Photos: personal collection

Post from: The Paris Traveler

Shopping & Strolling the Champs-Elysees

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 16:45:00 +0000

This guest post is by Mary Jo Manzanares, Travel & Culture Channel Editor and travel blogger at Flyaway Cafe.

If the thought of a fine bag, a decadent pair of heels, or the feel of the fabric of a finely crafted suit makes you swoon, then an afternoon on the Champs-Élysées in Paris may be your definition of heaven.

Avenue des Champs-Élysées is not only one of the most recognized street names in Paris, but in the entire world, and is lined with luxury and specialty shops, theaters, cafes and restaurants. Its name translates to "Elysian Fields" a reference to the "place of the blessed" in Greek mythology. With the prices you’ll see at most of these shops and cafes, you’ll need to be blessed, indeed, to make this your prime shopping district.

The street itself is a little over a mile and a quarter long (see photo at left), running from the Place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe in the 9th arrondissement. While its easy to get caught up in its current incarnation as the ultimate shopping location, originally, in the de Medici era, the area was a field and garden market. It was also the location of the famous marches to celebrate the 1944 liberation of France, one march by the French and the other by American troops. Today, the Champs-Élysées is home to the annual Bastille Day parade and is the end of the Tour de France.

It seems like the Champs-Élysées is always full of people, day or night. You’ll find people stopping off to shop at places like: Drugstore Publicis (filled with so many upscale products that it seems a misnomer to refer to it as a "drug" store), Louis Vuitton (its largest store in the world), Virgin Megastore, Adidas (its largest store in the world), and Nike Paris, as exclusive stores co-exist with the growing presence of large chain stores.

Above the street level stores, you’ll find offices, attracting still more people. And, of course, day or night, patrons are flocking to the restaurants, cafes, and theaters.

I enjoyed wandering the street, stopping of at a few shops now and again. Although the strength of the dollar was not on my side, I did manage to justify a purchase at Louis Vuitton, followed by lunch at cafe right in the heart of everything. While lunching on the Champs-Élysées is quite expensive (some might say over-priced), I considered it both a meal and an opportunity to do some people watching as I whiled away a beautiful fall afternoon in Paris.

Photo credit: personal collection

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Post from: The Paris Traveler

Bateaux Parisiens Sightseeing & Dinner Cruises

Fri, 14 Nov 2008 23:02:00 +0000

This is a guest post from Mary Jo Manzanares, Travel & Culture Channel Editor and blogger at Flyaway Cafe

Bateaux Parisiens is a cruise company that conducts sightseeing, lunch, and dinner cruises on the Seine, along with operating a river-boat shuttle called Batobus.

I opted for an evening sightseeing cruise, and for an hour we cruised the Seine while the hostess pointed out a number of attractions. The commentary was pleasant and informative, and not filled with the typical puns and drivel that you so often get on tours.

Schedules vary, but details and information can easily be found in the city. At the time I was there the sightseeing cruise operated every half hour until 10 pm, and cost €11. It was easy to walk up and get a seat. Reservations required, however, for lunch and dinner cruises.

Photo credit: Jon Rochetti

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Post from: The Paris Traveler

The Historic Arc de Triomphe is a Must-See in Paris

Thu, 13 Nov 2008 11:32:00 +0000

This is a guest post from Mary Jo Manzanares, Travel & Culture Channel Editor and blogger at Flyaway Cafe

Standing in the center of the Place Charles de Gaulle (also called the Place de l’Étoile) at the western end of the Champs-Élyseés, the Arc de Triomphe is the largest triumphal arch in the world.

It honors those who bravely fought for France, particularly during the Napoleonic Wars. , Beneath the arch is the tomb of the unknown soldier from World War I, marked by the very first eternal flame. The flame burns in memory of those who died, but were not identified, in both WWI and WWII. An inscription reads “Here lies a French soldier who died for his fatherland 1914-1918” (translated here into English).

The arch stands about 165 feet tall, and measures about 148 feet wide, and around it is a roundabout that is one of the busiest in Paris. Do not try to dodge in and out of this traffic! That would be dangerous, and brand you as a serious nutcase. While I watched, I saw many people tempted by it – but fortunately no one crazy enough to actually attempt it.

You can reach the arch sensibly by following the signs to the underground passage way that will take you beneath the crazy roundabout to the arch. From there you can take a short elevator ride back to ground level or climb the stairs. In the photo above you see me waving at you before heading to the passageway to cross over.

What will you see? Keep reading to find out!

Spend some time walking around the Arc de Triomphe looking at the sculptured facade. A few highlights include a winged figure of Victory, a sculpture of Napoleon, and the 30 shields (each representing a victorious battle) on the crown of the arch. On the inside and top of the arch are inscribed the names of generals and battles fought, with the names of those who died in battle underlined. Conveniently missing are some of Napoleon’s later battles.

If you’re up to it, climb the 284 steps to the top of the arch. There is no elevator! The steps are stone, and the passageway narrow and circular. It’s okay if you need to stop and catch your breath – most people did.

Once at the top, you’ll be treated to magnificent views in all directions. Take a look around and you’ll see 12 major arterials leading into the Place (for an example, look at the photo below). Watch how the merge into the roundabout, and you’ll have a real appreciation for driving in Paris. There are fabulous photo opportunities from the top, and since the Arc is open late, it’s a favorite spot for sunset and evening photos.

You can reach the Arc de Triomphe by RER line A (train) and Métro (subway), getting off at the Charles de Gaulle-Étoile stop.

It is open daily from 10 am – 11 pm, and closes a half hour earlier during the fall and winter months. There is no charge to walk around the base of the arch. Access to the top was €7 when I was there, and kids under 18 are free. Admission is also covered as part of the Paris Museum Pass.

The Arc de Triomphe was one of my favorite monuments in Paris, and is probably the most famous in Paris. I’d put it on a must-see list for a Paris trip, for its historical significance, art, and views. Allow half an hour or so to explore the ground level, and an additional hour (or more) if you are going to go to the top.

Photos credit: all from personal collection

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Post from: The Paris Traveler

Playing with Travel Photos – Eiffel Tower

Wed, 12 Nov 2008 22:07:00 +0000

This is a guest post from Mary Jo Manzanares, Travel & Culture Channel Editor and blogger at Flyaway Cafe.

Playing with photo editing software today – always a fun thing to do with travel photos.

I like making the Eiffel Tower even more artistic looking that it really is!

Photo credit: personal collection

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Post from: The Paris Traveler

Tips on Planning a Trip to Paris

Wed, 12 Nov 2008 08:11:10 +0000

This is a guest post from Mary Jo Manzanares, b5media’s Travel & Culture Channel Editor and travel blogger at Flyaway Cafe.

When I went to a trip to Paris. last year, I went through fairly extensive research and preparation. The City of Lights has long called to me, and although I only had a short period of time, I was determined to make it a great trip.

Research done quickly for a short trip can be productive, and I want to share with you my preparation for the trip. The process is one that can be replicated for most destinations. If you have more time, more indepth research can be done, of course, but don’t let little time to prepare scare you away from a great travel adventure.

Preparation is a key part of travel, but despite my best efforts to plan as far in advance as possible, some last minute scheduling issues intervened, and I was left with only about a week to pull everything together. This was my first trip to Paris, and despite a flurry of last minute changes, I found that it is a trip that can be done at the last minute. Preparation helps, but if you don’t have time to thoroughly prepare don’t let it stop you. Go anyway!

When I knew that I was going to make the trip, I began assembling a list of ideas of places to go, and things to see and do. My first goal was to choose an area of the city in which to stay. Research helped me put the arrondissements in preferential order.

Next I hit the library for guide books. The current editions don’t circulate, but I could check out the older editions. For my purposes, the older editions were just fine. I knew that I’d do current research online, and I just needed to get an idea of which guidebooks I’d prefer for the trip. The little stuff changes year to year, but I was pretty safe in believing that the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame were right where they’d been the previous year. This library time saved a ton of money at the bookstore.

When I went to the bookstore, I had a pretty good idea what I wanted to buy. Still, I love bookstores, so I had to spend some time browsing the bookshelves to see what was available. I settled on two guidebooks: Fodor’s See it Paris and Frommer’s Paris Day by Day.

I took these books with me on the trip, and they turned out to be excellent choices. They were small enough to carry around easily, provided good information, had great maps, and good suggestions for independent travelers. I wanted solid overview information, location, Metro stops, etc., so that I could best plan my times. I wanted lots of choices, and these two books provided it.

I also purchased and took along a language book. I don’t speak French and was a little concerned about that. While it was a very helpful book, I didn’t need it. I was able to navigate the language just fine, and had help from many Parisians who spoke English. I’d definitely pack the book for a trip to the French countryside, or if I was navigating in smaller towns and villages, though.

The final part of my research preparation was downloading information to my iPod. I’m a relatively new iPod owner/user, but I’ve gotten pretty hooked on it already. Through iTunes I found a variety of free downloads, including walking tours of Paris, French language lessons, French cooking shows, and all sorts of travel information and tips. I selected everything that I thought would be helpful and loaded up my iPod. I probably overdid it. I didn’t use any of the walking tours, much preferring to wander along on my own. (I think you find the most interesting places and meet the most interesting people that way.) Also, I didn’t want to have a gadget attached to my ears the whole time. I wanted to hear Paris as much as see it. Nonetheless, the information was useful for planning purposes, very entertaining, and made a long flight less boring.

If I’d had more time, I would probably have done more research. But, I only had a few days, and there was still lots more to do. . . .

Photo credit: personal collection

Post from: The Paris Traveler

Statuary at the Louvre in Paris

Tue, 11 Nov 2008 22:15:00 +0000

This is a guest post from Mary Jo Manzanares, Travel & Culture Channel Editor and blogger at Flyaway Cafe

As is often the case when travelers get to talking, the discussion soon turns to places we’ve been, places we’re going, and places we want to go.

One of my favorite recent trips was to Paris.

The photo was taken on a visit to the Louvre. The statuary was in a garden atrium area of the museum, and is just one of hundreds of pieces on display.

I recently had the opportunity to watch some sculptors at work, and that has given me a new appreciation for the effort that went into these marble pieces of art.

Photo credit: personal collection

Post from: The Paris Traveler

Fermé

Thu, 31 Jul 2008 14:13:10 +0000

If you happen to be heading over to Paris this month, be warned that you are going to see an amazing amount of signs similar to this one, telling patrons that yes, indeed, it is August, we are French and by God, we are going on vacation for the entire month!! That’s it. Shops and cafés will draw the curtains, their owners will flee the city in search of sun and fun, usually in the south of France where chances are, the sun will actually shine and the city will feel different–quieter. I moved to Paris in August and the culture shock of seeing so many places just close their doors for a month was odd but amazing. I knew I was going to like it here.

I, too, have caught the need to get away bug and my sign is being posted right here. My sign is one of a more permanent nature, however. This will be the last post for The Paris Traveler. It is with much sadness that I take my leave. I have so enjoyed sharing my passion for this magnificent city with you and hope that you have found some of what I wrote about helpful. Most important, I hope you always felt welcomed to my world. Writing this blog was for me like talking to my friends on a daily basis.

There truly is no other place like Paris–even you crumudgeons who have nothing good to say about France would walk away entranced by something. The curious thing–you wouldn’t be aware anything was happening to you until, oops, too late! It works its magic in mysterious ways.

Since we are going separate ways, I hope these last weeks of summer are oodles of fun for you. I also hope that if in your dreams, Paris is a destination for you, your dream comes true.

Come visit me here and don’t be strangers!!

A bientôt.

Photo credit: degrés 360@flickr

Post from: The Paris Traveler